Lisbon, Portugal's captivating coastal capital, is swiftly emerging as one of Europe's go-to destinations. With a rich tapestry of history, a temperate climate, enchanting old town vistas overlooking the serene Tagus river, and an unwaveringly amiable populace, it's not difficult to understand why it's become such a magnet for explorers.
Since our move to this vibrant city in 2022, we've been captivated by its climate, friendly people, enchanting aura, and strategic proximity to other remarkable European cities. However, this relocation has also given us a firsthand view of the sobering rise of overtourism, not just in Lisbon, but around the globe.
As seasoned expats, we believe it's crucial to minimize our negative impact on the local culture and support the local economy in a respectful manner, all while enjoying the things that resonate with us. Be it speakeasy bars, international food, rooftop cocktails, music festivals, beach culture, or the city's delightful weather, we strive to strike a balance between our own passions (like finding the best ramen!) and the preservation of the city's authenticity and cultural identity.
This guide on Lisbon is here to support you in navigating the essentials that contemporary travelers seek. You'll find tips on areas to stay, the best spots to enjoy a satisfying coffee, and a variety of bars, restaurants and experiences to discover. We're here to help you unearth a Lisbon that fuses the timeless with the trendy and the hidden treasures tucked away in its streets.
While our recommendations may not always involve traditional cuisine or popular tourist sights, we believe that experiencing Lisbon should be an adventure designed to reflect your passions. Our guide's goal is to connect you with contemporary culture and experiences that enhance, not overshadow, the local culture and vibe. We strive to spotlight the hip and vibrant locations that inject a fresh twist into the city's rich history and traditions.
STAY
Lisbon's varied neighborhoods, each imbued with its own unique ambiance and offerings, cater to a wide range of interests and preferences.
The city's epicenter, encompassing the Baixa, Chiado, and Alfama neighborhoods, is the nucleus of the major tourist spots. While these areas have their own charm (sans the hordes), we personally advocate for exploring beyond these bustling hubs. Fortunately, Lisbon's compact design ensures that even the furthest reaches of the city are no more than a 25-minute cab ride away.
The bohemian Bairro Alto, primarily known for its vibrant nightlife, can offer a distinct experience. If you’re one of those people who loves to hop from bar to bar in the evenings, this is the Lisbon neighborhood for you. However, if a peaceful night's sleep is a priority for you, this area might be better suited for a day visit rather than an extended stay. One of the best boutique hotels around here is The Lumiares Hotel & Spa. This hotel has rooftop views across to the River Tagus & all the creature comforts.
Príncipe Real and Avenida da Liberdade, Lisbon's response to the Champs-Élysées, boasts the best high-end shopping and some of the chicest dining in the city. They are like that fancy, upmarket restaurant that you splurge on because you want the experience. It's all about swanky boutique hotels (like toc toc toc or Porto Bay Liberdade) that make you feel like you're living in an interior design magazine, and luxury bars that'll make you feel like you've just stepped into a movie. Just keep in mind that this kind of opulence comes with a price tag to match. So, make sure your wallet is ready for its own little adventure.
Meanwhile, Alfama offers a glimpse into Lisbon's past with its charming, albeit often crowded, medieval streets that wind down to the river. This district is a significant tourist magnet, renowned for its scenic viewpoints and traditional restaurants that host evening Fado shows. It's a delightful area to visit, but the crowds can make it a challenging place to reside.
Santos is a popular neighborhood for Lisbon's locals and travelers due to its proximity to the city center while also being away from the hustle. This area is a mixture of old and new, with traditional tile-covered buildings sitting alongside modern apartments and buildings. You could even stay in a palace here and soak up the atmosphere. Santos is also home to some of the city's design shops and galleries, so it's an ideal spot for getting the hip Lisbon vibe. This was the first place we stayed when we moved to Lisbon, and we enjoy going back to our favorite places.
If you're yearning for a more authentic, tranquil Lisbon experience away from the crowds, make sure to delve into our dedicated guide on quieter, more local neighborhoods. We passionately advocate exploring these lesser-known areas, as they often provide the most genuine insight into Lisbon's character and lifestyle
One More Thing - Public Service Announcement
Let's chat about those infamous, calf-busting, sweat-inducing hills. Lisbon is known as the city of seven hills. They’re about to give your legs a Portuguese workout that'll make even the most grueling gym session seem like a walk in the park. Seriously.
Think of it as your free, all-access pass to daily 'Leg Day' – no subscriptions, no hidden fees, just pure, unadulterated toning. So, you can wave goodbye to your online gym sessions while you’re here. We're talking about a workout that even the most dedicated fitness instructor would be proud of. As your trainer tells you, wear good shoes. Not flip-flops or sneakers with no grip. This will also help if it happens to rain. Trust us.
But it’s not all sweat and sore muscles. These hills are also your ticket to some of the most breathtaking views in the city. We're talking panoramic scenes that will make your friends green with envy. So, grab your sturdiest pair of walking shoes, a bottle of water, and get ready to conquer Lisbon one hill at a time.
PLAY
When the sun sets and the lights come on, Lisbon transforms into a city buzzing with energy and endless possibilities. The scene in the Portuguese capital is vibrant and diverse, offering a mix of trendy hotspots, hidden stores, and contemporary, hip experiences. In this section, we'll guide you through some of the best non-touristy things to do in Lisbon, ensuring you have an unforgettable experience of this modern revival.
Palácio do Grilo: Located in Lisbon's Beato neighborhood, the 350-year-old Palácio do Grilo is more than a historical monument - it's an immersive theatrical experience. The Parisian theater director Julien Labrousse and his creative team have masterfully transformed this neoclassical palace into a living, breathing piece of surrealist fairy tale. Each visit to the Palácio do Grilo presents an opportunity to explore its stunning azulejos, frescoes, and artfully crumbling walls while being entertained by a rotating cast of artists. These performers bring the palace to life with unexpected, captivating displays that vary from day to day. But the Palácio do Grilo isn't just a feast for the eyes - it's also a literal feast. The palace hosts an all-day restaurant where you can dine amidst this enchanting ambiance. As you enjoy your meal, you'll feel as though you've stepped into the dreams of the whimsical duke who once called this place home.
Mirari: Immerse yourself in the vibrant atmosphere of Mirari, a newly established open-air food court, bar and market that promises a sensory feast for foodies and music lovers alike. Located in the heart of Lisbon, Mirari hosts a rotating lineup of food stalls, offering a diverse range of culinary delights from around the world. As you indulge in the gastronomic offerings, groove to the beats of weekly DJs and enjoy live events that create an unforgettable ambiance. Mirari is the perfect spot to satisfy your cravings and immerse yourself in the city's vibrant food and music scene.
Black Cat Cinema: For cinephiles seeking a unique movie experience, Black Cat Cinema is the place to be. This intimate cinema showcases a curated selection of independent and classic films, offering a cozy and relaxed setting to enjoy a movie away from the tourist crowds. With its vintage decor and carefully selected film lineup, Black Cat Cinema provides a nostalgic escape into the world of cinema among the tiled streets of Lisbon.
Crack Kids: For those seeking a taste of Lisbon's urban culture, Crack Kids is an experience you should check out. This store serves as a meeting point for street artists, musicians, designers, and photographers, forming a vibrant community within Lisbon. Explore the space filled with graffiti products, clothing lines, and serigraphy, while also experiencing the artistic exhibitions of emerging talents. After immersing yourself in the art, head to Ordinário, the restaurant and bar located at the back of Crack Kids, and enjoy a refreshing drink in a creative atmosphere overlooking the river.
Beach Clubs in Costa da Caparica: Escape the city and head to the stunning beaches of Costa da Caparica, where you'll find a vibrant beach club scene. Praia Irmão and Princesa Beach Clubs offer the perfect blend of sun, sand, and entertainment. Relax on sun loungers, indulge in refreshing cocktails, and dance to the rhythm of the music. If you visit during the MOGA festival, a beachside electronic music event, you'll witness the magic of live DJ performances against the backdrop of the Atlantic Ocean.
Jardim da Estrela: Instead of going to the busier Parque Eduardo or Principe Real, spend a sunny afternoon in Jardim da Estrela, a charming park that provides a tranquil oasis in the heart of Lisbon. Grab a bottle of natural wine from a local wine bar like Senhor Uva (Mister Grape) or Bistro Bichomau and unwind in the park's atmosphere. Jardim da Estrela offers a peaceful retreat away from the bustling city streets.
Anjos70 Flea Market: Explore the vibrant world of Anjos70, where you can discover a treasure trove of vintage finds, unique crafts, handmade products and second-hand gems. This flea market showcases the creativity and craftsmanship of local artisans, allowing you to browse through a diverse range of products, antiques, and quirky collectibles. Get lost in the maze of stalls, strike up conversations with sellers, and uncover a slice of Lisbon.
Calouste Gulbenkian Museum: Nestled in the quieter northern parts of Lisbon, the Museu Calouste Gulbenkian is an artsy oasis that deserves a spot on your list. Now, we're not just talking about any old museum, oh no. This place is home to a collection that'll take you on a whirlwind tour of 5,000 years of history. The museum is wrapped in boutique gardens that make the perfect backdrop for an artful game of hide-and-seek with the sculptures dotted around. And trust us, a stroll here is just as Instagrammable as the art pieces.
Of course, there are some more famous places you should visit, such as the LX Factory, The Electricity Museum (seriously) and the MAAT, and EMBAIXADA, but we’re sure these are already on your list.
EAT
From the iconic pastel de nata to the freshest seafood, Lisbon's culinary scene draws inspiration from its rich history and global influence. The dining options are as diverse as they are exciting, ranging from the comforting familiarity of neighborhood tascas to the innovative menus of Michelin-starred restaurants. Here are some essential eateries you must explore that may not be on your list:
Bolo D’Oro: Venture beyond the well-trodden path of Manteigaria and Belem for your Pastel de nata fix and discover Bolo D’Oro. A venture of two young guys using their grandma's beloved recipe, their take on the iconic Portuguese custard tart strikes a heavenly balance - not too eggy, not too sweet and the pastry is on point. Plus, with an enticing selection of tartlets adorned with fresh fruit, and a lineup of wine and cocktails to complement, it's the perfect spot to switch up your usual nata routine.
Magnolia Bistro & Wine Bar: Lisbon's cutest neighborhood gem is a charming bistro nestled in the beautiful corner of Praça das Flores. The creators are culinary and hospitality experts and they bring their magic to one of Lisbon's finest quarters, inviting everyone to indulge in a selection of finely crafted bites and drinks on the outdoor terrace. They also have a brunch menu that is perfection. The wine list is concise and exclusively natural, making it the perfect spot for those laid-back summer evenings when you want your palate delighted by a perfectly composed small plate, without having to overthink your drink choice. Come for the bites, stay for the ambiance.
BouBou’s: A family-run restaurant that takes casual fine dining to a new level. Head Chef Louise Bourrat's zero-waste, experimental approach results in a deliciously diverse and delightful tasting menu. Don't miss out on the handpicked wine pairings.
Trinca: A secret in the Anjos area, Trinca serves up a range of dishes inspired by Portuguese, South American, and Japanese cuisines. From prawn ceviche to Katsu sandos, their perfectly-curated menu will keep your taste buds intrigued.
Comadre: an alluring gem in Lisbon's dining scene, blurring the line between quirky and elegant. Step through a mirror to discover this atmospheric dining spot filled with vintage charm and Wes Anderson-esque curiosities. Boasting an Italo/Mediterranean-inspired menu, Comadre offers a bevy of delectable shareable plates including mouthwatering options like Suppli and Kebab, as well as an array of vegetarian-friendly choices. The pièce de résistance is the secretive underground private dining area, reminiscent of an 18th-century explorer's living room, guaranteeing an unforgettable experience.
Prado: A standout in the Sé area, Prado offers a micro-seasonal menu, focusing on organic ingredients from local producers. Don't miss the Minhota beef tartar served in charred cabbage "tacos," a staple since they opened in 2017.
Kefi Greek Bistro: Experience a slice of Greece in the heart of Lisbon. The minimalist decor, high ceilings, hints of greek blue and tasteful artwork set the perfect stage for a menu that will make your mouth water and your Instagram feed thrive. Iconic Greek dishes are prepared with unique, modern twists and turns. Kick off your meal with a traditional Greek wine or beer. As for food, we suggest a sharing approach: start with the saganaki, must-try tzatziki and pita, followed by moussaka and chicken souvlaki. Don't forget to leave room for dessert. The cheesecake and chocolate cake were next level good.
Our essentials guide to food will update as we continue to try new places across the city. So come back for more! Or even better still, subscribe to our curated maps. More info about that can be found here.
DRINK
Lisbon, Portugal's vibrant capital, is a hotspot for caffeine connoisseurs, rooftop revelers, art aficionados, and club crawlers. Boasting a thriving coffee scene by day and a lively party vibe by night, the city is a treasure trove of excitement with hundreds of nighttime haunts to explore. For those in search of Europe's best party scene, you'd be hard-pressed to find a better contender. Here are some handpicked hotspots from us, but make sure to also peruse our Lisbon rooftop guide for more high-altitude fun options. Ready to dive in? Let the Lisbon adventures begin!
Neighbourhood: An Australian cafe via London, Neighbourhood offers the best coffee in the city and an incredible brunch. The breakfast burritos are a must-try, while evenings see a switch to a menu featuring smashed burgers and local beers and wines.
Folks Coffee: Despite our usual skepticism towards places with multiple outlets, Folks Coffee has won us over. Renowned for their exemplary coffee, they excel at creating sublime cold brews and V60 pour-overs. The appeal doesn't stop at the brews - their tantalizing brunch and lunch menus are sure to satiate your hunger. Whether you're a coffee aficionado or just in need of a cozy spot for a meal, each Folks Coffee location is a must-visit in the city.
Malabarista Café: Renowned as one of the best specialty coffee stores in the city, Malabarista charms with its friendly owners, dog-friendly policy, and superior brews. Don't miss their Espresso Tonic for a refreshing treat on a hot day.
Comida Independente: This deli and wine store showcases "great products from small producers." Here, you'll find everything from artisanal foods to natural wines, all brought to you by passionate producers.
Janis: A stone's throw from the Timeout Market, Janis is a charming café where ivy hangs whimsically from the ceiling. Their freshly ground custom blend of coffee earns rave reviews, making this spot a must-visit for caffeine aficionados.
Tricky's: "Drink, Dine, Dance" is the mantra at Tricky's. This lively bar serves up an array of small plates featuring local produce alongside a selection of natural wines. The intimate, minimal lighting and music set a relaxing mood that invites patrons to stay awhile and enjoy the complete Tricky's experience.
Buna Specialty Coffee São Bento: Coffee enthusiasts will appreciate Buna for their delectable brews. But this isn't just a spot for coffee - they also serve a variety of tantalizing pastries and cakes that are just as tempting. This was one of the first coffee shops we fell in love with that we keep going back to.
Casa Independente: Combining an art gallery, bar, and event space, Casa Independente is a funky and cool hangout that serves as a cultural hub. Its unique atmosphere makes it a standout in Lisbon's vibrant and modern scene.
Bom Bom Bom: This natural wine bar nestled in Graça pairs its stellar wine list with delicious small plates. Bom Bom Bom is the perfect place for those looking to enjoy a casual, relaxed evening with great food and drink. Plus, they have DJs playing on weekends, spinning records that pair perfectly with the wine.
TOCA DA RAPOSA: This is a cocktail bar that takes their ingredients seriously. It offers a menu filled with fresh and innovative concoctions that are sure to delight and surprise your palate.
Sneaky Sip: Step into a lively homage to the Prohibition-era speakeasies. Entry requires a secret password found on their Instagram, echoing the clandestine allure of the 1920s underground bars. Once inside, a photobooth is your gateway to the bar hidden below via a secret staircase. But Sneaky Sip isn't just about the experience; it's about the drinks too. Forget wine or beer, here you'll find a cocktail menu crafted with inventive and oft-overlooked ingredients. Whether it's cheese, garlic, anchovies, or even duck fat, prepare for a unique journey of taste and nostalgia.
Monkey Mash: Inspired by modern tropical themes, this bar is dedicated to serving fresh, fruity, and exotic drinks, offering a relaxed yet intriguing ambiance. The focus is on distillates from sugar cane and agave, with an homage to exotic drinks from the primate-inhabited corners of the world. Expect a vibrant, colorful, energetic, and fun atmosphere.
Liquid Love Lx: Drawing inspiration from the 80's Italian trattorias, LLX serves cocktails and stuzzichino (small bites like KILLER focaccia) in a laid-back setting. The drinks are balanced, complex, and, let's not shy away from the word, sexy. A blend of casual fun and culinary sophistication, it's a place where you’re made to feel welcome.
Rumors: Rumors stands out as a unique cocktail bar experience in Lisbon. Here, you book online, bring your favorite liquor bottles, and engage with a dedicated mixologist for two hours. You'll be treated to five personalized drinks, reinvented classics, and custom cocktails prepared with unexpected ingredients and techniques right before your eyes. A must-try experience for anyone visiting Lisbon.
